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24 Comments

  1. Ipazilla.con
    Fredrik
    September 2, 2019 / 8:57 pm

    Nice guide. Are you planning to add photos of the wiring and such?

    • Ipazilla.con September 12, 2019 / 10:55 pm

      Thanks for the reminder, I did have a couple of extra pictures to add.

  2. Ipazilla.con
    Henrik
    October 28, 2019 / 10:24 am

    Thanks for this very detailed guide. Now im with less money in my wallet, but an old Wanhao with a brand new SKR board 😀
    For those who struggles to connect the stock wanhao i3 1.2 LCD display. I got it working by connecting the following pins:
    pin 1 LCD CS –> 1.19 EXP 1
    pin 2 Encoder B –> 3.25 EXP 2
    pin 3 LCD Data –> 1.18 EXP 1
    Pin 4 Encoder A–> 3.26 EXP 2
    pin 5 LCD SCLK –> 1.20 EXP 1
    pin 6 Encoder Button –> 0.28 EXP 1
    pin 7 ESTOP –> I dont use that one- so did not try to find it
    pin 8 Beeper –> 1.30 EXP 1
    Pin 9 5v –> 5V EXP 1
    pin 10 GND –> GND EXP 1

    LCD pins should like this:
    1 2
    3 4
    5 6
    7 8
    9 10

    Once again, thanks for this guide!

    • Ipazilla.con October 29, 2019 / 1:27 pm

      Awesome, thanks for the LCD pinout!

    • Ipazilla.con
      MARIUS Petcu
      May 22, 2020 / 12:33 am

      Thank You so Much for the Information … we are all remain indebted to You … Thank You …

    • Ipazilla.con
      Ed
      December 27, 2022 / 4:03 pm

      What setting did you use?

  3. Ipazilla.con
    Ola Ruud
    December 15, 2019 / 4:53 am

    Had several problems doing this with tmc 2130 and 2100.
    Could not make the dual z work, tried lots of things. Ended up doing z steppers in paralell from one driver and upping its vref.
    For some weird reason the steps per mm on z axis was off, had to make it 100 steps/mm for it to move correctly.

    seems that the SKR doesnt support flashing firmware by octoprint without modifications which is a bit of a drag but then again it is pretty easy to do by sd card.

    Not done with the build yet so more problems may occur.

  4. Ipazilla.con
    Andrew
    January 7, 2020 / 12:17 am

    hmm, in my wanhao i3 v.2.1, the z axis uses stepper motors with a maximum current of 0.47 amperes. I suspect that 0.76 is too much for them.

    • Ipazilla.con January 22, 2020 / 4:24 pm

      As I recall reading when I did the upgrade the Z motor amps need to be doubled if ran in parallel, I just did some Googleing and found that to be true. You could most likely cut this in half if using dual Z steppers. Thanks for pointing this out!

  5. Ipazilla.con January 16, 2020 / 1:05 pm

    Hello, Thanks for a great guide but how should I connect the endstops ?

    • Ipazilla.con January 22, 2020 / 4:33 pm

      As far as I remember they endstops are plugged into the bottom two pins if looking at the picture posted. I didn’t change the endstop plugs, some people did. I just plugged em into the board and they fit fine for me, no issues.

  6. Ipazilla.con
    Stephen Marshall
    January 17, 2020 / 10:08 am

    Big thanks for writing this. Followed the instructions and only had a few hiccups. That being said, the crimper tool makes me want to outright murder someone.

    • Ipazilla.con January 22, 2020 / 4:35 pm

      No problem, glad it helped! What hiccups did you hit? Anything that I should note or update that caused them? And you are so right, that crimper has a learning curve.

  7. Ipazilla.con
    Adam
    February 18, 2020 / 11:06 am

    This guide doesn’t work for me anymore. Please if anyone has a ready to go and complete bugfix folder they can upload for me you’d be saving me a fucking headache. Been at this for weeks since I got my replacement skr. First one and first time worked great for me.

    • Ipazilla.con
      Tracy Nadeau
      March 5, 2020 / 3:03 am

      What does not work? I haven’t tried this config yet but I have built and flashed SKR boards with Malin 2.X and this includes every thing you need.

  8. Ipazilla.con
    Pascal
    September 18, 2020 / 8:37 am

    Visual Studio gave me a hard time .. thank you utube. the debug version of Marlin was missing the Marlin.ini require to open the project with the MARLIN-2.0.X I was able to go and edit the cpu on platformio.ini than the Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h ..

  9. Ipazilla.con
    Dan O'Connell
    October 9, 2020 / 12:28 pm

    Great guide! I’m using it for my Maker Select v2.1 and I have the printer working 99% but I have one major problem I cannot figure out. The X axis is not homing properly. Instead of moving in the negative direction and stopping at the X endstop it moves in the positive direction about 5-10mm and sets that as the X home position. Any ideas? The Y and Z homing is perfect, only the issue with X

    • Ipazilla.con October 9, 2020 / 12:55 pm

      Have you tried inverting the direction? It has been a long while since I have fiddled with the firmware but there are a couple spots that you may need to play with. I would try inverting the X axis, either the driver itself or probably home direction. 1 should be the right side and -1 the left side I believe, flip flop whatever you have tried and see. If you have already tried this then I am not sure, I would hop on a Facebook group. I am in a few, some for BigTreeTech and a few for the Maker Select. The groups are active and a lot of people offer help. Sorry I couldn’t be of more help. But if you get it fixed please let me know how you did it.

      #define INVERT_X_DIR true/false
      and
      #define X_HOME_DIR 1/-1
      and
      #define USE_XMIN_PLUG vs #define USE_XMAX_PLUG

      • Ipazilla.con
        Dan O'Connell
        October 9, 2020 / 1:19 pm

        Thanks for the quick response. I did try inverting before and that caused grinding. I might have a work around, if I push the x carriage against the endstop and home x it appears to home x properly. I’ll have to level the bed and try a test print to confirm.

  10. Ipazilla.con
    Josh
    December 1, 2020 / 5:51 pm

    Im probably going to give this a shot. Many thanks for the in-depth explanation beforehand. I appreciate the fact that you haven’t abandoned this post.

  11. Ipazilla.con
    Stefan
    January 22, 2021 / 8:13 am

    Just wanted to say thank you for this guide. Used it to upgrade my printer a few days back and this made it a lot easier to do. I made my own congfig.h and adv files but followed through with your changes for the most part and have been happy with how it’s gone. I got the TFT35 v3.0 and it was probably unneeded since I mostly use octopi, but I like it.

    I also use an inductive probe, and that’s the only issue I really ran into. The z-endstop pins apparently have a pull up on them. This caused some issues, so I changed the pin for Z_MIN_PIN to P2_00 in pins_BTT_SKR_V1_3.h and plugged the signal wire into that pin on the board, which is the servos header right/yellow/orange pin. After doing that, it works like a charm.

    Here’s the diagram showing the pin at the bottom. https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/613805/68263383-825d1500-000b-11ea-8401-5e8566dbd149.png

  12. Ipazilla.con
    Fred
    November 25, 2022 / 7:47 pm

    How is this working for you long term? I am about to do the same exact thing after letting everything sit in a corner for 2 years…

    • Ipazilla.con November 29, 2022 / 10:24 pm

      I still use the printer and the SKR from this post, but along the way I dropped Marlin and adopted Klipper. If I had to do it all over again I would rethink how I mounted my printer permanently to the Ikea LACK table I used and the location of my Raspberry Pi, this makes it a pain to work on and move around. Other than that it has been great.

      https://www.itsalllost.com/adventures-in-klipper/

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